- HP Gaming Mouse M100S
HP M100S.
A so called mute mouse(Just with no-click sounds). After months of use, it began to going awry. Its left button began to send double-clicks instead of its dutiful single-click messages. Thus the author fixed the left button replacing the original gone-awry button switch inside it with the new one. It has been working fine ever since the fix.
And in few weeks now its right button has gone awry. No response on right-clicks.
As such, the author(I) has decided to fix the mouse again.
He (the author, i.e., I) will exchange the mouse right button switch inside it with one of Kailh's 3-pin switch, which seems better than its original silent button switch, though it emits small click sounds.
The original switch inside the mouse has two pins only while Kailh's has three pins. Two-pinned and three-pinned, are they compatible?
Yes, they are. Here are the details on what have been done:
Prerequisites :A so called mute mouse(Just with no-click sounds). After months of use, it began to going awry. Its left button began to send double-clicks instead of its dutiful single-click messages. Thus the author fixed the left button replacing the original gone-awry button switch inside it with the new one. It has been working fine ever since the fix.
And in few weeks now its right button has gone awry. No response on right-clicks.
As such, the author(I) has decided to fix the mouse again.
He (the author, i.e., I) will exchange the mouse right button switch inside it with one of Kailh's 3-pin switch, which seems better than its original silent button switch, though it emits small click sounds.
The original switch inside the mouse has two pins only while Kailh's has three pins. Two-pinned and three-pinned, are they compatible?
Yes, they are. Here are the details on what have been done:
-
HP Gaming Mouse M100S with a symptom of no response on right button clicks
- Kailh 3-pin micro switch 80M
, soldering tools
- A cross-headed screw driver and little bit of lead
The Specifics
- Open its cover after taking out the screw at the bottom of the mouse with a cross-headed screw driver:
- Open its cover by pushing up and front of the upper cover
and take out its PCB board.
-
Before replacing the button switch.
Now flip the board then check the button's leaded status to take it out off the board flawlessly.
-
Check and melt down the two leaded points with a heated soldering tool so that the malfunctioning switch may be taken off the board.
Pull off the switch right on melting down the two points swiftly to take it off the board right away.
-
Put the new one onto the original's place where the malfunctioning one resided, for the replacement.
Check the two main soldering points and solder them now. The third remaining one may well be soldered too for safety's sake.
But for later easiness of maintenance here the author decided not to solder the last one, as these days the mouse switches have become more apt to go out of order than before. - Now that the replacement operation has all been done,
it's time to re-assemble all the mouse parts.
- Finally, put up the cover and put the bottom screw back in and wind it up with the screw driver previously used for unwinding it, to wind up and finish the maintenance task.
The author hereby clearly enunciate that any error, damage or loss to the reader
arising from the reader's tasks by following this tutorial
is assumed by the reader.
In no cases would the author be held responsible for such occurrences, damages
or loss of whatsoever.
So, please be careful following and performing any task based on this article.
BTW, thanks for reading it. Have fun!
Next : Reviving COWON D2 PMP (change its battery)
EOD
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